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VEGETABLE GARDENING:
I will post any useful gardening tips here. Please feel free to send an email to me with any helpful suggestions. Thank you.
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We are in the Western Mountains and High Plains Region, you need to know this to know when to plant your garden seeds and plants.
Western Mountains and High Plains USDA Hardiness Zones: 5 to 8
AHS Heat Zones: 4 to 10
Sunset Zones: 1,2,10
Major Cities Bend
OR, Boise ID, Boulder CO, Calgary ALB, Cedar City UT, Cheyenne WY,
Denver CO, Dodge City KS, Durango CO, Edmonton ALB, Ely NV, Flagstaff
AZ, Helena MT, Klamath Falls OR, Missoula MT, Nelson BC, Pierre SD,
Provo UT, Rapid City SD, Regina SAS, Reno NV, Salt Lake City UT, Santa
Fe NM, and Spokane WA. The Region The
eastern border of the Mountain West and High Plains region runs
north-south through the Dakotas, western Nebraska, Kansas, and to the
panhandle of Oklahoma. It then travels west across northern New Mexico
and Arizona turning north just above Las Vegas and running up the spine
of the Sierra Nevada Mountains in California. It continues up the
eastern slopes of the Cascade Mountains, includes the high deserts of
eastern Oregon and Washington, and concludes in the Rocky Mountains and
High Plains of Canada. The Climate The
climate in the Mountain West and High Plains is perhaps more varied
than any other climate in the United States and Canada. Elevation
dictates much of the climate in this region. High elevation areas
feature cold winters and short summers. Low elevation river valley
areas are milder and wetter. Rainfall averages under 10 to 20 inches a
year in parts of eastern Washington and Oregon and most of Nevada and
Utah, to 40 to 50 inches a year in the mountains and valleys of
Colorado and Idaho. High winds and snowfall dictate the winter weather.
The Rocky Mountain area features extremes and rapid fluctuations of
temperature, wind, elevation, and light intensity. Snowfall may stay on
the ground for a day, a week, or all winter long. Spring can happen
suddenly, but so can a late spring snowfall. Summers can be sunny, hot,
dry, and short. The Growing Season Although
this area ranges from USDA hardiness zone 5 and 6 in Idaho to zone 2
and 3 in Wyoming, microclimates, more than general hardiness zones,
dictate what can be grown. For example, a European white birch can grow
on the high plains only if protected from drying winds. Longer growing
seasons also occur where large bodies of water, such as Flathead Lake
in Montana, help moderate temperatures. The frost-free days range from
150+ days in the high plains and Northwest river valleys to 70 days in
some Rocky Mountain areas with frost a definite possibility almost any
day of the year in the mountains.
Frosts in late spring and
early summer, can put a damper on a gardener's ability to grow some
frost sensitive perennials such as peonies. Warm season vegetables such
as tomatoes and peppers need special attention and frost protection to
provide warmth and insure a harvest. Conversely, early autumn frosts
may preclude growing late-blooming perennials such as Maximilian
sunflower or fruit varieties that require a long growing season to
mature, except in the milder high desert areas.
Winters can be
dry or very snowy, and very cold. However, in some of the warmer, more
protected micro-climates (against sides of buildings, boulders, or
areas with consistent winter snow cover) and in low land valley areas,
less hardy plants such as onions, boxwood, and apples can be
successfully grown.
Preparing for your garden:
Good
soil preparation is the basis for any great garden. Take the time to do
it right and you’ll save time and money in the long run, as your plants
thrive and garden maintenance becomes minimal. Step 1 Cut
sod into strips 12 to 18 inches wide. Cut the strips by digging into
the ground with a spade or edger, pushing the blade just below the
roots — a depth of about 2 or 3-inches deep. Step 2 Professionals
remove sod with a sod lifter — a tool designed specifically for the job
that can be rented or purchased at The Home Depot. Alternatively, you
can put the handle of a spade close to the ground and kick the blade
sharply to dislodge sod. Step 3 You
can reuse sod. Roll up the strips and remove them from the bed. Trim it
into lengths of 2 to 4 feet. Replant as soon as possible. Step 4 Work
amendments, such as peat moss, manure or fertilizer, into the soil. Dig
to a depth of at least 1 foot, then rake the bed smooth. To discourage
growth of weeds, lay down landscape fabric, such as Weedblock,
available at The Home Depot. Cut Xs in the fabric and root plants in
the soil below. Cover the fabric with 2 to 3 inches of soil or mulch.
Tools and Materials
- Spade
- Sod lifter
- Garden hoe
- Garden rake
- Work gloves
- Tiller (optional)
- Soil amendments
- Landscape fabric
- Soil or mulch
About This Plant
Plant dwarf
varieties to save space and produce early harvests. Plant tall or pole
varieties for bigger harvests over a longer period of time. Peas are a
cool-weather crop that can withstand frost. Northern gardeners can
often plant their first crop near the end of March, as soon as the
garden has thawed and the soil can be worked.
Because shelling peas (the kind you remove from the pod before eating)
were derived from varieties that thrived in England, they are sometimes
called "English peas." This helps distinguish them from edible-podded
snow and snap peas, both of which have similar cultural requirements,
as well as southern peas -- black-eyeds, crowders and creams, for
example.
Site Selection
Select
a site with full sun and well-drained soil. Prepare the garden bed by
using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15
inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost.
Planting Instructions
Plant
pea seed early in spring as soon as the soil can be worked, and harvest
before hot, early summer days occur. For early spring planting, select
a well-drained site that dries out quickly after the winter. Where
spring soil stays wet for extended periods, build raised beds in the
fall. Erect trellis or supports for all tall varieties before planting.
Sow seeds in the early spring 1 to 1-1/2 inches deep and 2 inches
apart.
Care
Start
training the tendrils onto the supports when the plants are about 6
inches tall. When pods are maturing in a hot spell, water daily if
necessary to keep up quality.
Avoid deep hoeing around peas -- the roots are tender and damage
easily. Contact your local County Extension office for controls of
common pea pests such as aphids and slugs.
Harvesting
Harvest
pods carefully. Use your fingernail to pinch off the pods or use
scissors. Pick garden peas when pods are well filled but before they
begin to harden or fade in color. Harvest snowpeas when the pods are
young and tender and the peas inside are undeveloped. Snap peas are
ready when the pods are plump, but still crisp and well colored.
Pick peas every day during the harvest period.
Tasty,
nutritious spinach is one of the first crops planted in spring. It's
higher in iron, calcium and vitamins than most cultivated greens, and
it's one of the best vegetable sources of vitamins A, B and C. About This Plant
Spinach must
have at least 6 weeks of cool weather from seeding to harvest.
Preparing a spot for spinach in the garden is best done in the fall so
that, come spring, you can sow the seeds outdoors as soon as the ground
thaws. Or, if you live where winters are mild, you can prepare soil and
plant in fall.
Site Selection
Select
a site with full sun to light shade and well-drained soil. Prepare the
garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a
depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost.
Planting Instructions
Plant
seeds outdoors 4 to 6 weeks before your last spring frost date, and
again 4 to 6 weeks before the first fall frost date. Spinach bolts when
days are 14 to 16 hours long; warm weather makes it bolt even faster.
Sow seeds 1/2 inch deep, about 12 seeds per foot of row, or sprinkle
them over a wide row or bed.
Care
When
seedlings are 1 inch tall, thin to stand 4 inches apart. Water every
few days during dry spells; mulch spinach planted in rows to retain
soil moisture. Contact your local County Extension office for controls
of common spinach pests such as leaf miners and aphids.
Harvesting
To
harvest early, cut individual leaves as soon as they are big enough to
eat. When the weather warms up, cut the whole plant close to the
ground, below the lowest leaf. Harvest again after a few new leaves
reappear. Repeat as necessary.
The
lowly cabbage has been elevated to a position as one of the most
nutritious vegetables, now that it has been shown to contain abundant
nutrients, including antioxidants. About This Plant
Cabbage can be
enjoyed in numerous ways. It can be eaten raw in cole slaw, as well as
steamed, stir-fried, and pickled. Sauerkraut is fermented cabbage.
Cabbage leaves can also be stuffed, using large leaves to wrap around a
savory filling. Cabbage is grows best when the heads mature in cool
weather, so plan to harvest before the onset of hot weather in summer
or in the fall.
Site Selection
Select
a site with full sun and well-drained soil. Prepare the garden bed by
using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15
inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost.
Planting Instructions
For
a spring-planted crop, buy transplants at a nursery or start seedlings
indoors 50 to 60 days before the last spring frost date. Harden off
transplants over the course of a week or two, then plant them in the
garden two or three weeks before the last expected frost date. Space
early-maturing cabbages 12 to 15 inches apart, either in beds or single
rows; later types, 18 to 24 inches apart. For fall crops, sow seeds
directly in the garden. Plant seeds 1/4 inch deep, 1-1/2 to 2 inches
apart, thinning plants to the proper spacing.
Care
When
cabbages are 4 to 5 inches tall, thin or transplant to stand 18 to 24
inches apart. Apply a thick layer of mulch to retain moisture. Water
plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Contact your local county extension office for controls of common
cabbage pests such as aphids, root maggots, cabbageworms, and cabbage
loopers.
Harvesting
Start
harvesting when cabbage heads are firm and softball size. Cut the head
from the stem with a sharp knife and discard the outer leaves. To keep
cabbage as long as possible, harvest late in the season before hard
freezes and keep heads in a cold, moist area.
Radish
Radishes
are some of the easiest vegetables to grow. In this country, most
radishes are eaten raw in salads. However, in other cuisines, radishes
are an important food source, often preserved by drying or pickling. About This Plant
Radish
varieties vary in size, color, shape, and taste --some are very
pungent, while others are quite mild. Plant short-season or spring
varieties in spring or fall, depending on local temperatures. Ideal
growing temperature is 60 degrees F to 65 degrees F. Cooler or warmer
weather results in harsher-tasting radishes. Plants will mature in 18
to 45 days, depending on variety. Plant winter types in the summer or
fall, depending on the variety; they mature in 45 to 70 days.
Site Selection
Select
a site with full sun to light shade and well-drained soil. Prepare the
garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a
depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost.
Planting Instructions
Because
they grow so quickly, spring radishes can be planted right next to rows
of larger, slower-growing crops; there's no need to create a separate
radish bed. Sow radishes directly in the garden. Plant spring varieties
1 inch apart, 1/2 inch deep. To get larger spring radishes, plant seeds
1-1/2 inches deep, 1-1/2 inches apart, in rows 24 inches apart. Plant
winter radish varieties 1 to 3 inches apart.
Care
When
young radishes are 1 inch tall, thin to 2 to 3 inches apart. Provide
even watering. Heat and too little or uneven watering can result in
tough, pithy, very hot radishes. Contact your local County Extension
office for controls of common radish pests such as root maggots.
Harvesting
Pick
spring varieties as soon as they reach the size you prefer. Before they
become tough and pithy, pull all the radishes, trim off the tops, and
store in plastic bags in the refrigerator. In cool weather, winter
varieties will keep adequately in the ground for a few weeks after
maturity. Store these radishes through the winter as you would carrots
or beets, layering them in boxes of sawdust or peat moss.
Asparagus
 A classic spring treat, asparagus is a perennial that will produce tender spears every spring for many years.
About This Plant
Asparagus
is grown from 1-year-old plants or "crowns," which are planted in early
spring as soon as the soil can be worked. Asparagus plants take three
growing seasons to reach full production, although light harvesting can
begin in the second year. Once established, an asparagus planting will
provide abundant harvests for fifteen to twenty-five years. Allow ten
to twenty plants per person (15 to 30 feet of row).
Site Selection
Select
a well-drained site in at least part sun; full sun is not necessary.
Asparagus will thrive in slightly acid soil (pH of about 6.5), but will
tolerate alkaline conditions up to 9.0.
Planting Instructions
Eliminate
all weeds by repeated tilling. Loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15
inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. Prepare the bed by
digging trenches 4 feet apart. The trenches should be 12 inches wide
and 6 to 12 inches deep. Soak the crowns briefly in lukewarm water
before planting. Draw a hoe along each side of the prepared trench to
form a mound in the center running the length of the trench. Set the
crowns 18 inches apart on the mounds in the trench, draping the roots
over the sides. Cover the crowns with a mix of one part compost to
three parts topsoil, burying the crowns 2 inches deep. Water the bed
thoroughly. After about a month, once shoots have appeared, carefully
add more soil to the trench.
Care
First
year: Weed the beds frequently, taking care not to disturb roots.
Periodically add more topsoil/compost around the emerging shoots until
the trench is filled. Then spread a 4- to 8-inch layer of mulch, such
as hay or leaves, around the base of the plants. Water regularly. Do
not harvest any spears the first year. Cut down dead foliage in late
fall and side-dress with compost.
Second year: Cultivate lightly by hand until the new spears are several
inches tall. Keep the bed thickly mulched. Side-dress with compost in
the spring and early fall. Cut down dead ferns in late fall. You may
harvest very lightly the second year.
Third year and beyond: Maintain as for the second year, and begin harvesting.
Harvesting
Plants
started from crowns can be harvested lightly in the spring of the
second year. Begin harvesting in earnest the third year. Harvest only
those spears that are thicker than a pencil. Cut off the spears at or
just above ground level when they are 6 to 8 inches tall.
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